Punjabi slow-cooked lamb shank curry (Kunna gosht)

Kunna gosht originates from the village of Chiniot in the Punjab region of Pakistan. The dish is also often called Chiniot gosht after the village it originates from. The term "kunna" refers to the wide-mouthed clay pot in which this dish is slowly simmered. This dish is a cousin of the very popular nihari, but has a distinct profile. What makes this dish special is the earthiness that comes from cooking it slowly in an earthen pot, the clay adding to the flavour profile. In addition, slow cooking extracts the gelatin and marrow from the shanks, resulting in a thick, gelatinous curry. The recipe calls for flour as a thickener, but I tend not to use this hack.

Finally, the dish is minimalist in essence, a simple garam masala that develops a deep, structured flavour as it simmers.

This is a village dish, one that belongs to the farming community; it did not get created in the high palaces. The idea was to slow-cook tough pieces of meat, such as shank and trotters, that were rich in collagen. The farmers would set up these pots to slow cooka nd head out to the fields, returning to a cooked, rich meal hours later when the meat has softened, and the rich collagens have dissolved into the curry.

The dish entered the mainstream with the famed Chiniot Shaikhs, furniture merchants who established vast trade networks. They grew wealthy and brought the kunna into their urban homes, and the associated dishes like kunna gosht. They demanded the highest-quality shanks and black cumin, an expensive spice at the time. The dish became widely accepted and entered the mainstream, from village life to urban life.

I will admit I loved this dish. The meat was tender, slipping off the bone. The curry was light and sticky with gelatin, and the spices had bloomed in the fat. It was a dish that was delicious, light, yet rich, the flavours bold.

This is an excellent cookbook of traditional and modern Pakistani cuisine. It is a beautiful book with gorgeous photographs and packed with recipes. The author has kept to the traditional flavours and traditions. This is a lovely cookbook for anyone who wants to enjoy this cuisine.

For more recipes from this cookbook, click here

Ingredients:

For the garam masala:

1 teaspoons aniseed

2 black cardamom pods

1-inch cinnamon stick

10 green cardamom pods

1 star anise

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black cumin (shah jeera)

1 blade mace

10 cloves

12 black peppercorns

For the curry:

3 tablespoons oil

3 tablespoons ghee

1 large onion, finely diced

1 tablespoon ginger paste

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 lb lamb shanks, whole or cut

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

2 tablespoons garam masala. from above

6 cups water

Salt, to taste

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour (maida) (optional)

To garnish:

Green chillies, thinly sliced

Cilantro, minced

Lemon wedges

Method:

Dry roast all the spices individually for the garam masala until they are aromatic. Cool completely and blitz in a spice mill until you have a smooth powder. Seta side. The garam masala can be stored in a dry, air-tight bottle for up to one month.

Heat the oil and ghee in a deep pot. Add the onions and sauté on medium-low heat until they are a light golden colour, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a minute until the ginger no longer smells raw.

Add the meat and fry until sealed on all sides, about 3-4 minutes. Add the chilli powder and garam masala, then toss well to coat the meat in the spices. Do not allow the spices to burn.

Add the water and salt and bring to a boil. The meat should be completely submerged in the curry. Simmer for 2 hours, stirring the pot occasionally.

At this point, the meat should have receded from the shank and be very soft. taste for salt and spice, adjusting as needed.

Serve hot garnished with chillies and cilantro, a lime wedge on the side and with rice of naan bread.