Chicken ishtoo

An Ishtoo (also known as Estew, Eshtu, Ishtu, or Istoo) is a bastardisation of the traditional English (or Irish) stew brought to India by the British. Indians and colonials in India adapted the almost bland English version to include chillies, spices, and coconut milk as the base. The essence of the dish was transformed into a delicate stew with flavours and aromas. The Kerala stew, in particular, is mild, lightly scented and beautifully flavoured with a hint of chilli.

This version also draws inspiration from northern cuisine, utilising fried onions and ghee. This adaptation is due to the influence of Mughal cooking techniques, which heavily relied on onion-based gravies. However, the stew remains true to its South Indian roots, being delicate, lightly flavoured, and featuring a thick coconut base. The stew is excellent, the chicken is fall-off-the-bone tender, the flavours are subtle, and it is perfect with appams. Also, check out the delicious Mixed vegetarian ishtoo on this blog.

This South Indian cookbook brings to my shelf the unique cuisine of the Chettinad Tamils in South India. This now popular cuisine is known to be extremely spicy, complex, and distinct. This book is a wonderful collection of recipes that make this cuisine accessible to us at home.

For more recipes from this cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 one-inch piece of cinnamon stick

3 cloves

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds (saunf)

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

3-4 green chillies, cut lengthwise in half, or to taste

1 tablespoon ginger paste

3-4 garlic cloves, minced

9-10 shallots, peeled and left whole

12-15 curry leaves

1 lb chicken drumsticks, or cut of choice

Salt, to taste

1 teaspoon pepper

1 can of coconut milk

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed

1 teaspoon lime juice or vinegar

2 tablespoons ghee

1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced

Cilantro, minced, to garnish

Heat the oil in a large pot, large enough for all the ingredients, and add the mustard seeds. When they splutter, about 20 seconds, add the cinnamon stick, cloves, fennel seeds, and cumin seeds and give a quick stir. Add the green chillies, ginger, and garlic, and sauté for 2 minutes until the raw scent of the ginger is gone.

Add the shallots and curry leaves and sauté till the shallots are translucent; you do not want them to turn colour.

Add the chicken and sauté till the chicken looks cooked on the outside and the meat is sealed, about 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk and water, if needed, to cover the chicken. Simmer sealed with a lid for 30 minutes, checking the liquids periodically to ensure they are not drying out.

Add the potatoes, stir well and simmer for an additional 15-20 minutes till the potatoes are cooked through and soft. Remove from the heat and add the lime juice, stirring it in. Once the lime juice has been stirred in, do not boil the stew; it may split.

Heat the ghee in a frying pan and add the onions. Fry till the onions are browned. Remove and set aside.

To serve, heat the stew carefully, ensuring it remains hot without boiling unattended. Stir the stew almost continually. Serve hot, sprinkled with the fried onions and garnished with some cilantro.