Karwar rice, sorghum, and chickpea pancakes (Ghavan)

The Indian world of pancakes and dosas is immense. Most of us are familiar with the crisp rice paper dosa, slathered in ghee, but every single lentil can be made into a dosa. They vary in style from the ultra-crisp to the soft, steamed versions like the set dosa, and the versions that straddle the two, like the appam, which has a crisp side and a soft base.

More than the variations, the dosa speaks to the land, to the crops indigenous to the region, and to the communities, how they have, over centuries, learned to make these delights.

Ghavan is a typical dosa from the Konkan region, especially from the seaside village of Karwar. It is a steamed dosa, meaning soft, unlike its crispy cousin. The softness is essential; it is eaten with curries, and the dosa is the perfect vessel to sop up all that flavor. In addition, the dosa is steamed over a low flame, allowing the batter to cook slowly, unlike the high heat used for a crisp dosa.

This is a distinctive cookbook on Karwar cuisine that I adore. The food is intense and authentic, and every recipe I have cooked from it is absolutely delicious. I have no memory of where or when I bought this cookbook, but I’m so glad it’s on my shelf. I highly recommend it to those who want to master and enjoy this unique cuisine.

For more recipes from the wonderful cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

1 cup rice flour

2 tablespoons sorgum flour (jowar)

2 teaspoons chickpea flour (besan)

1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds, lightly crushed in a mortar

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds, roasted and lightly crushed in a mortar

2 tablespoonsfull-fat yoghurt

1-3 green chilies, finely diced, or to taste

1/3-1/2 cup water

Salt, to taste

Ghee to fry

Method:

Mix all the ingredients, then add the water, starting with 1/3 cup. You want a thin batter, one that lightly coats a spoon. Set aside for 15 minutes.

Heat a dosa pan or non-stick pan on a medium flame. Allow the pan to heat up, but do not let it smoke. Add a teaspoon of the batter; it must be set immediately in the pan to create a firm base.

Add a small ladle of the batter to the center of the pan. Using the ladle's round bottom, start in the center and spread the batter in a circular motion until you reach the edge. Drizzle with a teaspoon of ghee. Cook for 2 minutes, until the dsa is set. Flip, the dosa should have released from the pan when cooked. Cook the second side for one minute. Remove and repeat again.

NOTE: If the dosa tears when spooning out, it means the pan is too hot. If the dosa base does not set almost immediately, then the pan is too cold. Adjusting the heat to the perfect temperature is essential for a good dosa.

Serve immediately with chutneys or curries of your choice.