Preserved lemon ice cream with fennel pollen garnish

My Hyderabadi heritage always included preserved lemons. My grandmother, and now my mother, make these every season: limes in bottles with salt, set out in the cool winter sun until ready. Dhoop limboo, or sun limes as they are called in Hyderabad, is a dying trade, hard to find commercially, and few chefs use them anymore.

The history of preserved limes begins in Morocco, dating back almost 1000 years. Known locally as l'ḥamd mraqqad, they were a way for ancient tribes to preserve the citrus crop's bounty for the dry season. The rationae also went beyond storage; they provided Vitamin C year-round, especially on long voyages or camel caravans, helping prevent scurvy. They were easy to carry, and a little was enough to add both Vitamin C and salt to their diets.

Eating in the medinas and restaurants of Morocco many years ago, I noticed how often preserved lemons appeared on the table and in dishes, stews, and tagines. My memory flashed back to my childhood, the same flavors bringing back memories of gathering around my paternal grandmother's, Dadis, table.

The Qutb Shahi rulers of Golconda shared relations with the Safavid Empire of Persia. They maintained cultural, military, and blood ties with the empire; the Peacock Throne at Topkapi Palace is still evidence of this. With this came trade and the immigration of traders, especially jewelers. Along this route came cuisine, and the humble preserved lemon traveled along, becoming a delicacy in a new land.

What surprises me culturally is that in Morocco, preserved lemon is almost always used as an ingredient in dishes, stews, or rice dishes. However, in Hyderabad it is prized and served as a condiment, treasured more than a common kitchen ingredient. Small bits are eaten on the side with rich curries and kebabs, serving as a palate cleanser. In Morocco, it adds “umami”, but in Hyderabad it clears the palate.

The process of preserving is simple: cut the lemons, fill them with salt and lime juice, and preserve for 4-6 months. My mother’s traditional recipe is simpler: whole lime and salt. Sealed in a glass bottle and kept in the winter sun, November to March.

The salt does its magic, pulls out the water out, and makes the tough skin soft and velvety. The limes go from green to yellow and then to pale brown. The juices become syrupy because of the heavy salt and the lime pickles, with time as the only other ingredient.

I made a few batches with my mother 6 years ago: with just salt, garam masala, fresh ginger and green chili, and fresh turmeric. They marinated them for 6 months, then I put them in my pantry to preserve them further. Today they are 6 years old, the limes shriveled, the syrup thick and almost caustic, the flavor intense. If you have ever tried a commercial preserved lemon, think of a flavor intensity 50X what you have tasted. This is the preserved lemon I used.

The fennel pollen comes from California, wild-harvested by folks who walk along the highways and fields during fennel season, tapping each into a bottle, slow, tedious, and another labor of love.

The ice cream is tart; it slaps your palate, almost as if it doesn't belong in this class of foods. The fennel pollen adds that small nuance of flavor, calming the tartness. The ice cream isn't overly sweet, more of a palate cleanser than a dessert.

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Ingredients:

2 cups cream

1/3-1/2 cup sugar

1 preserved lemon

Fennel pollen, to garnish

Method:

In a saucepan, heat the cream and sugar over low heat. Do not boil; simmer gently until the sugar fully dissolves. Set aside to cool completely in the fridge.

Meanwhile, finely mince the preserved lemon, discarding the seeds, and set aside.

If you like texture to the ice cream, follow the first part of the recipe. When the cream has cooled, mix in about 4/5 of the minced preserved lemon and mix well. With an immersion blender, puree the preserved lemon until very smooth; be careful not to let the cream start clumping into butter. Add the remaining minced preserved lemons and mix in well. For a smoother ice cream, add the preserved lemon at the first step and puree until smooth.

Churn in an ice cream maker on the ice cream setting.

Best served immediately.