Hyderabadi ground mutton pulao (Kheeme ke khichri)

Most biryanis use chunks of meat, whether they be goat or chicken. This is a common variation where ground mutton is substituted. The biryani is nuanced with flavour, mild and aromatic, in true Nawabi style, rather than bold. The spices are well-balanced and rounded, and the "korma" of the ground mutton is delicate and aromatic. The shah jeera adds a nuanced flavour profile; it beautifully structures the base flavours. This is a simple dish with a regal backdrop, one that survives thanks to its short cook time and simplicity. Like all biryanis, it is complemented by a yoghurt raita; I chose Churri, but you can pick any raita you prefer.

Pratibha Karan began her career as an IAS officer and later transitioned to authoring cookbooks. She has published a couple of cookbooks, and her work as the Secretary in the Ministry of Food Processing prepared her for this new role. This cookbook is her opus on Nawabi Hyderabadi cuisine. She brings to your table the distinct dishes of the era and culture. From the classic Dum ka biryani to the lesser-known dishes she has revived, this book features recipes that shine on the table.

For more recipes from this book, click here.

Ingredients:

3 cups long-grain basmati rice, separately cooked and set aside

3 tablespoons ghee

3 tablespoons olive oil

6 onions, finely sliced

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons ginger paste

3-4 green chiliies, minced, or to taste

1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1 lb ground mutton

1/2 cup cilantro, minced

1/2 cup mint, minced

1 cup full-fat yoghurt, whipped

Salt, to taste

Juice of 2 limes

Cilantro, minced, to garnish

Mint, minced, to garnish

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 cloves

1 teaspoon caraway seeds (shah jeera), lightly toasted

1 teaspoon ground cardamom seeds

1/4 cup milk

10 strands saffron

Heat the ghee and oil over medium heat, then add the onions. Fry until the onions are a deep gold. You will need to stir the onions almost continuously to ensure they cook evenly.

Add the garlic, ginger, and green chillies, and cook for an additional minute, until the ginger no longer smells raw. Add the chilli powder and turmeric and toss quickly, taking care not to burn the spices.

Add the meat, cilantro, and mint and stir it into the onion base, breaking the meat up quickly. Cook for 30 minutes on. medium-high heat until the meat is well-cooked and tender. The meat should begin to caramelise a bit, and the oil should pool in small bubbles.

Add the yoghurt and salt, and cook for about 15 minutes, until the curry is very thick. You want the consistency to be almost dry, with just a light amount of liquid. Taste for salt and allow to cool.

Meanwhile, in a mortar, pound the cinnamon, cloves, caraway, and cardamom seeds until a fine powder forms. Set aside.

Heat the milk until almost boiling. A microwave is suitable for heating the milk. Add the saffron strands and stir in. Allow the saffron to seep for at least 30 minutes.

In a large dish or pot, layer 1/3 of the rice at the bottom. Top with the meat mixture and sprinkle the spice powder on top. Add the remaining 2/3s of the rice in a flat layer. Drizzle with the saffron milk. Garnish with cilantro and mint.

To serve, heat the pot over a very low flame for 10 minutes, until steamed. Alternatively, you can bake the pot in the oven at 375°F for 20 minutes.

Open the pot at the table so your guests can smell the fresh aroma as it escapes. Serve immediately with a side of raita.