Chiang Mai curry noodles (Khao Soi)

Let's start with some history of this dish. It arrived via Yunnanese Chinese Muslim traders, the Chin Haw, through Myanmar and Laos. They settled in Northern Thailand, specifically in the Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai regions. As it travelled through Myanmar, it picked up strong Burmese characteristics, particularly from the dish Ohn No Khao Swe, which translates to "coconut milk noodles". The name Khao soi means "cut noodles", and the origins of this name are still disputed. One theory is that the noodles were made in long sheets, then rolled and cut into fine strands. This could be the origin of the name. However, as it travelled, the dish shifted from rice noodles to heartier egg noodles, and the how and where of this transformation is not documented.

The original broth from the Yunnan side was most probably lighter and clearer. The Burmese and Thai influences introduced coconut milk and heavy spices to suit their palates. The topping of fried noodles is unique to Thailand and not seen in any of its predecessors. It adds a lovely crunch to the dish. And finally, pickled mustard greens and raw shallots are essential for cutting through the soup's fat.

This is a rich soup, the flavours bold and beautiful. The noodles are plentiful, soft and crisp and the addition of pickled mustard is a must to cleanse your palate. This is meal, I usually serve just this dish so folks can get their fill.

This was the first cookbook I bought by Naomi Daguid, and I was immediately transported to wonderful meals at small tables across Thailand, Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. A wonderful collection of recipes in a beautiful coffee-table cookbook—mine stays in the kitchen! There are tons of recipes to explore and lots of anecdotes and stories to tie the cuisine to the land and culture. It's one of my favourite cookbooks!

For more wonderful recipes from this cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

3 garlic cloves

1-inch fresh ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 lb boneless beef or mutton

6 cups water

1 star anise

2-inches lemongrass

10 peppercorns

1 clove

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons oil

2-3 tablespoons Thai Red curry paste

3 cups coconut milk

1 tablespoon sugar

4 cups water

2 teaspoons fish sauce

Boiled egg noodles:

10 oz. egg noodles

Fried egg noodles:

5 oz. egg noodles, broken

Oil, for deep frying

To garnish:

Fresh cilantro, minced

Lime wedges

Pickled mustard greens

Sliced shallots

Scallions, sliced thinly

Start by cooking the meat. Add it to a pot with the water and spices and bring to a boil. Scoop off any scum. Simmer for 90 minutes. The meat should be very tender, shredding between your fingers. Set the meat and stock aside.

While the meat is simmering, pound the garlic, turmeric and salt to a fine paste. Set aside.

Cook the egg noodles according to the instructions on the packet, minus 1 minute for al dente. Cool completely under running water and set aside.

To fry the noodles, heat the oil in a shallow fryer and drop in the noodles in batches. Fry until puffed and crisp, about 1 minute. Remove and rdrain on paper towels. Set aside.

When the meat is ready, start on the soup. Heat the oil in a pan and add the turmeric paste. Fry for 1 minute until the paste is no longer raw. Add the curry paste and cook for another 2 minutes, taking care not to burn the paste. Add the coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Do not boil. Cook for 5 minutes.

Add the meat and stock and simmer for 30 minutes. The soup will thicken to a thin curry, and the oils will begin to float on the surface. Taste for salt and spice. The soup should be bold and very flavourful.

To serve:

Serve the soup hot. Serve with fried noodles, boiled noodles, fresh cilantro, lime wedges, pickled mustard greens, shallots, and scallions.