Bitter gourd in roasted coconut curry (Mappila-style)

I enjoy bitter flavours, and bitter gourds are among my favourites. Indian cuisine cooks bitter gourds using a variety of methods, including frying them as chips, stuffing them, sautéed, and currying them.

This curry, in particular, is excellent and takes advantage of the complexity of Mappila cooking. The spicy gravy balances the bitter flavours, and this curry packs a punch. Adding roasted coconut and roasted shallots to the curry adds a light sweetness to the beautiful dish. You can serve this curry with rice, but I also serve it with appams.

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Ingredients:

1/2 lb tender bitter gourd

6 cups water

1 teaspoon salt

4-6 dried red chillies, or to taste

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon anise seeds

1 cup grated coconut

6 shallots, peeled and halved

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons oil

1 onion, finely diced

3-4 green chillies, sliced

4-5 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup water

2 tablespoons tamarind paste

Salt, to taste

To temper,

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

10-12 curry leaves

6 shallots, finely sliced

Cut the bitter gourds along the vertical axis into narrow strips. If desired, remove the inner pith, but I like to keep it. Add to a pot with water and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes till cooked and soft. If you want a less bitter curry, change the water out after 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Meanwhile, dry roast the chillies, coriander, cumin, and anise seeds individually until fragrant and lightly coloured. Cool and grind into a fine powder in a spice mill or coffee grinder. Set aside.

Dry roast the grated coconut till dry and lightly coloured. Dry roast the shallots till cooked and charred in spots. Mix together with the water in a small blender and purée to a fine paste. Set aside.

In a pot, add the oil and heat on medium flame. Add the onions, green chillies, and garlic and cook until the onions start to turn light golden. Add the dry spice powder and sauté for 30 seconds. Add the cooked bitter gourd, toss well, and heat up.

Add the water and the tamarind and bring to a simmer. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the coconut purée and salt and simmer for 12-15 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and tartness, If you add more tamarind paste cook for an additional 5 minutes. Take off the stove and set aside.

To add the temper, heat the oil and add the mustard seeds. They will pop in 20 seconds. Add the curry leaves and shallots and sauté for 3-4 minutes until the onions are well browned. Drizzle the temper over the curry.

Serve hot with rice.