Assamese potato mash (Alu pitika)

I was having a meal at my sister-in-law's house a while ago, and she had served this dish. I, too, took a bite and knew immediately that I wanted to learn this recipe. Little did I realizehow simple this recipe is.

Potatoes are the backbone of the Indian kitchen, and the variety of dishes made with them across every region is absolutely amazing. Here is a very simple dish that captures the essence of Assamese cuisine. Bhartha is a dish from North India made with mashed vegetables, most commonly eggplant (baingan bharta). It is a dish in which the vegetables are mashed and mixed with cooked onions, usually tomatoes, and is spiced moderately to heavily, depending on the region.

A pitika, on the other hand, focuses on raw ingredients, usually with very little or no cooking, and on simplicity. The name pitika derives from the way the vegetables are mashed by hand, a technique that produces a perfect mix, neither too smooth nor lumpy.

The flavour is enhanced by raw mustard oil, which is pungent and strong, but characteristic of these dishes. Mustard is a major crop in the region, and hence, the oil is used abundantly in the cuisine. The rest of the ingredients are simple, and that's where the magic lies: transforming a simple vegetable and dish into something delicious. There are variations with dried fish, fermented bamboo shoot and fermented beans, all of which add nuanced flavours and textures to the dish.

It starts with creamy mashed potatoes infused with raw onion for texture and pungency, and cilantro for a fresh herb note. The raw mustard oil and chilli add a beautiful pungency. I have added a variation for a smoked version with hot coals, which adds depth to the dish, so I recommend it.

Pitika is more than a simple dish; it is comfort food in the region. It is simplicity, it is love. It is always present on the table, inviting and a go-to meal for those craving home.

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Ingredients: 2 lb potatoes, boiled, peeled and mashed

1 large onion, finely diced

1-2 green chillies, minced, or to taste

4 tablespoons cilantro, minced

Salt, to taste

4 tablespoons raw mustard oil

Optional: Hot coal

Mix all the ingredients together, making sure to work the oil into the mash.

If you are using the hot coal, then mix all the ingredients without the oil. Make a well in the centre of the potatoes and pour in the oil. Heat a piece of charcoal until it is red-hot, then drop it into the oil. Quickly cover it with the potato mix, then cover with a lid and let it sit for 15 minutes. Remove the coal and then mix all the ingredients well.

Serve slightly warm as a side dish.