Sumatran chunky mutton curry (Gulai bagar)

From West Sumatra, Minangkabau, comes this aromatic dish, rich and loaded with subtle flavours. It is iconic, a classic, and, in my opinion, fabulous.

The curry starts with a paste called bumbu kunning, made from turmeric, coconut milk, and aromatics.

Minangkabau cuisine is composed of aromatics, earthy flavours, layers, and boldness. It is traditionally a village dish, cooked in traditional earthen pots, with the ingredients added slowly throughout the cooking process. There is influence from Indian and merchant traders, which makes the flavours and cooking techniques more complex. It is core to Padang cuisine, and prized for its versatility.

This is a very distinct curry. The influence of the Arab, Indonesian, and Indian traders is present in a lovely dish. The curry is mild, but the flavour is rounded and subtle. The meat is tender and melts into the curry, and the eggplant adds a creaminess to the smooth sauce. I loved it with rice; it is a complex dish we should try at least once.

Sri Owen is a master of Indonesian cooking. Her deep knowledge of the ingredients and cultures of Java, Sumatra, and the other islands in the archipelago is unsurpassed. I have several of her cookbooks, each one a deep dive into the cuisine, culture, and history of the land. These, along with her other cookbooks, are highly recommended for any cook who wants to enjoy and master Indonesian cooking.

For more recipes from this cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

For the dry spices:

7-8 tablespoons desiccated, grated coconut

3 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 candlenuts or macadamia nuts

For the spice paste:

8 shallots or 2 onions, chopped

6 cloves of garlic

4-6 large red chillies, or to taste

1 teaspoon turmeric

A large pinch of nutmeg

2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate

4 tablespoons coconut milk

For the meat:

4 tablespoons coconut oil

3 kaffir lime leaves

3 cloves

2-inch cinnamon stick

6 green cardamom pods

4 inches of lemongrass, cut into 4 pieces and lightly pounded to release the aromas

1 lb boneless mutton, leg preferred, cubed to 1-inch pieces

2 cups coconut milk

Salt, to taste

2-3 cups water

1 small eggplant, sliced

NOTE: You can use bone-in meat, especially chops, if desired.

Start with the dry spice mix. Dry-roast all the ingredients individually until aromatic and lightly coloured. Cool completely.

Add them with the spice paste ingredients to a small blender and blitz to a fine paste. You may need to let the blender go for a while to break down the coconut. The smoother the paste, the smoother the curry will be. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a pot. Add the spice paste and cook on low heat for 20 minutes, until aromatic and the oils have begun to release in large bubbles. You want to fry the paste in the oils to get a beautiful aroma. Watch out: the paste will thicken and splatter terribly. Partially cover with a lid at this stage to protect yourself. Stir the ingredients frequently so that they do not stick to the bottom of the pot and burn.

Add the spices, kaffir lime leaves, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, and lemongrass and stir in. Add the meat and cook for 10 minutes until the meat is sealed and coated with the spice paste.

Add the coconut milk and salt and mix in. Add 2 cups of water and simmer gently for 90 minutes. Stir the pot occasionally so the spices co ot stick to the bottom of the pot and burn—taste for salt and spice. The curry should have a thick consistency like heavy cream and cling to the meat.

The original recipe calls for removing the meat, straining the curry, and adding it back to the meat. But I tend to ignore this step.

Serve hot with rice or roti jala.