Aceh-style goat curry (Gulai kambing Aceh)

This is a lovely curry from the northernmost tip of Sumatra. This goat curry speaks to old heritage trade routes, influenced by Indian and Arab traders, each adding a nuance to this dish that is perfectly intermingled with local flavours.

The dish is made particularly during the months of Ramadaan. In the afternoon, huge metal cauldrons called beulangongs are prepared and set over slow fires to simmer until sunset, when the day -long fast is broken. The curry is served with rice after prayers. The influences in this dish are clear: the warm whole spices, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, from the Arabs, the curry leaf and chilli from India, and the lemongrass and coconut milk from Indonesia. The technique is also a melange of sorts: the Indian temper, the slow-cooked stew of the Arabs, and the addition of aromatics from local cultures.

I must admit, I did enjoy the dish tremendously. The curry is rich and aromatic, the flavours well-rounded. The depth of flavour lasted on the palate well after the last bite, making it one of the most interesting curries I have had in a long time.

This cookbook is so much more than a collection of recipes. It is a history of a culture and its contributions to the world's cuisines. The author has travelled extensively to research this cookbook, which is evident in the introduction and each recipe. Filled with historical notes and tidbits, I can sit and read this cookbook as if it were a novel.

For more recipes from the fabulous cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

For the spice paste:

3 tablespoons shredded fresh coconut

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 teaspoons white peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 ablespoons white poppy seeeds

4-5 candlenuts or hazelnuts

2 inches of fresh ginger, thinly sliced

2 inches, fresh turmeric

1- inch fresh galangal

4-6 shallots, peeled

3-4 cloves garlic

1 red chilli, stemmed and destemmed for less spice

4 tablespoons water, or as needed

To marinate:

2 lb bone-in goat pieces

1 teaspoon salt

Juice of 2 limes

For the curry:

1/4 cup oil

6 shallots, thinly sliced

10 curry leaves

2 teaspoons mild chilli powder, or to taste

1-inch cinnamon stick

1 pod star anise

4 cloves

3 cardamom pods

4 inches of lemongrass, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 cups coconut milk

Salt, to taste

Method:

For the spice paste:

Dry roast the coconut, coriander seeds, peppercorns, fennel, cumin seeds, poppy seeds, nuts, ginger, turmeric, galangal, shallots and garlic in a frying pan until the dry spices are aromatic and toasted, and the ginger, turmeric, galangal, shallots and garlic are charred in spots. Cool completely. Add these ingredients, along with the red chilli, to a small blender with the water and blitz until smooth and thick. Set aside.

To marinate the meat:

Mix the meat with the salt and lime juice. Marinate at room temperature for 2 hours or in the fridge overnight (preferred).

For the curry:

Heat the oil in a deep pot on a medium-low flame. Add the shallots and fry until light golden in colour, about 3 minutes. Add the curry leaves and mix in. Add the chilli powder followed immediately by the cinnamon stick, star anise, cloves, cardamom and lemongrass. Be careful to lower the flame so as not to char the chilli powder.

Add the Spice paste and fry until the paste begins to smell aromatic and the oils begin to bubble in small pools.

Add the meat and toss well to coat with the spices. Turn the heat up to medium and cook until the meat is seared on all sides. Add the coconut milk and salt and bring to a boil. Simmer with the lid closed for 90 minutes, stirring the pot occasionally. It should be a slow simmer, allowing the spices to do their magic over time.

Test the meat; it should have pulled away from the shank and be fork-tender. If not, simmer for an additional 30 minutes.

Serve hot with rice.