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Sweet and spicy bitter gourd stir-fry (Kakarakaya vepudu)

Writer's picture: kzafarullahkzafarullah

A vepudu is a Telangana style of stir-fry with spices. As is traditional in the region, the stir-fry is usually spicy, laden with chillies, and tart with tamarind.

The taste receptors on the palate manage the balance between bitterness and sweetness. For these two tastes, in particular, the receptors act in inharmony; they balance each other out and harmonize the flavours. This is why most bitter dishes add a touch of sugar to create this effect.

This classic dish features bitter gourd, one of my favourite vegetables. The contrast between the gourd's bitterness and the jaggery's sweetness is balanced. The bitter gourds have a slight bite for texture, and the spices pop with heat and tartness. This dish should be well balanced with the tart, sweet and spice in balance. This is the perfect side dish for a table that adds a pop.

Archana Pidathala is an ode to her grandmother's cooking. This book is so much more than a collection of recipes, it brings to my table a history of the cuisine and people. Wonderfully written and with beautiful photographs, this cookbook fills a gap in my bookshelf in a cuisine I know little about.

For more delicious and spicy dishes from this cookbook, click here.


Ingredients:

For the spice paste:

12-15 dried red chillies, or to taste

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 teaspoons poppy seeds

3 tablespoons desiccated coconut

1-2 teaspoons jaggery

5 garlic cloves, peeled

3/4 cup water


1/4 lb baby bitter gourds (3-4)

3 cups water

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon turmeric


For the temper:

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

1/2 teaspoon split black lentils (urad dal)

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 dried red chilli

10-12 curry leaves

1/4 small onion, finely minced


For the curry:

1 tablespoon tamarind paste

1 cup water

Cilantro to garnish


Cut the bitter gout=rds longitudinally into quarters. Scoop out the central soft pith with the seeds. Cut the outer flesh into 1-inch-long thin slivers. Add them to a pot with water, salt, and turmeric. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes, until the flesh is cooked and soft but still has a bite. Set aside.


While the bitter gourds are cooking, dry roast the chillies, coriander, cumin, poppy seeds, and coconut individually in a frying pan until they are toasted and aromatic. Be careful; the coconut quickly turns from caramelized to burnt. Set aside to cool.


Add the roasted spices, jaggery, and garlic to a small blender and blitz to create a smooth paste. It will take some time to get the coconut smooth. Set aside.


Heat the oil in a pot on low heat. Add the mustard seeds and fry for 10 seconds until they begin to pop. Add the urad dal and fry for 10 more seconds until coloured. Add the cumin, chilli, curry leaves and onion and fry for 1 minute until the onion is very soft.


Add the spice powder and fry for 10 seconds, taking care not to burn the spices. Add the tamarind and cook for 1 minute. Add the water and cook the bitter gourds for 12-15 minutes until the tamarind no longer smells raw. Taste for salt, tartness, and sweetness. The spices should have dried into a thick curry and heavily cling to the bitter gourd.


Serve garnished with cilantro.

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