Savoury rice and green pea pilaf (Masala hari matar pulau)

Rice is central to the Indian subcontinent, and many historians consider it the grain's birthplace. Rice is grown abundantly in the South and the Northeast belt, dependent on the monsoon rains and hot weather. India boasts about 500 rice varieties in every form and color. Basmati rice is most common, but shortgrain varieties are also abundant, along with pink, red, brown, purple, and black rice varietals from across the country. I am happy to see numerous organizations reintroduce endogenous rice varietals to market; they work closely with farmers to grow these heritage grains and bring them to market. Because of this availability, upscale restaurants are using these grains on their menus.

This dish, however, is a simple, traditional recipe. The British introduced it during colonial rule; the rice is cooked with light spices and green peas. The dish is mild, the perfect pairing for the curries and dals on the Indian table.

Yamuna Devi’s cookbook is probably the first I bought when I moved to the US 30 years ago for my Ph.D. Over the years, I have cooked almost half the recipes; it taught me technique and flavor profiles and always gave me a wonderful meal. This vegetarian cookbook is essential on any shelf; it is the bible of Indian vegetarian cuisine.

For more recipes from this fantastic cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

1 cup basmati rice

3 cups water

3 tablespoons ghee

1/4 cup broken cashew nuts and slivered almonds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1-2 green chilies, minced

1/2 tablespoon ginger paste

1 1/2 cups water

3/4 cup fresh or frozen peas

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1/4 cup raisins

4 tablespoons mixed herbs, mint, cilantro, dill, oregano, thyme, or other

Salt, to taste

Method:

Soak the rice in 3 cups of water for at least 1 hour. Drain and rinse three times. Set aside in a fine-mesh sieve to drain.

Heat the ghee in a large pot. Add the nuts and fry for 2 minutes on medium heat until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Add the cumin seeds and green chilies. Fry for 1 minute. Add the ginger and fry for about 1 minute, until it no longer smells raw. Add the rice and cook over medium-high heat for 4-5 minutes, until the rice turns white. Add the water and bring to a boil. Simmer with the lid closed for 15 minutes.

Add the peas and gently mix them in. Cook for 10 minutes. Add the turmeric, garam masala, raisins, and herbs, and mix in well, taking care not to break the tender rice grains. Cook for another 5 minutes on low heat. The rice should be ready by now. Fluff gently.

Serve immediately, garnished with the nuts as a side.