Ethiopian spiced pumpkin soup (D'ba zigni)

There are over 800 varieties of pumpkins on this planet, and quite a few of them are native to Africa. Some African cultures or tribes have even elevated this plant to a "god-like" status; they grow it and use every aspect of it. We enjoy it in soups or stews most commonly, but in Africa, they eat the leaves, use the thick stems and vines to make ropes, use the hard-shelled gourds for water bottles, musical instruments, containers of various kinds, and of course, the pumpkin flesh, skins, seeds and flowers are all enjoyed more dishes and ways than can be described. Most importantly, the WHO has declared it a nutritionally important crop for Africa due to the high levels of vitamins, minerals and fibre.

The berbere spice mix is also native to Northern Africa and is found in regional variations. It is used in many ways, such as a rub on meats for grilling, as a seasoning in slow-braised meats and vegetables, or as a condiment with stir-fried vegetables or eggs. It is most commonly thought to have originated in Ethiopia and Eritrea, but similar versions are seen in Morocco, Somalia and other neighbouring countries. I have included the recipe here, but quite frankly, excellent ready-made versions are available in India (at Doyen Foods) and in the US (at Brundo Spice Company); frankly, buying the ready spice mix is just so much cheaper.

I love pumpkin soups in winter; they are always soothing, rich, and delicious. This is one of those soups. It is a smooth, gorgeous orange soup that bursts with a pop of spice. The sweet pumpkin is complemented beautifully by the bold Berbere spice, which adds heat and flavours that pop and persist. I topped the soup with a touch of yoghurt, as recommended by the chef, and a sprinkling of toasted pumpkin seeds (with or without Berbere spice) for texture. This soup will open your guest's palates and bring the dinner alive; I loved the soup and its rich and wonderful flavours.

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For more recipes from this cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

For the Berbere spice powder:

2 teaspoons cumin seeds

1 teaspoon black cardamom seeds

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

8-10 dried red chillies

1/2 teaspoon dried ginger powder

3 allspice berries

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3 tablespoons smoked paprika

For the soup:

3 tablespoons oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoon ginger paste

1 1/2 tablespoon Berbere spice powder, from above

1 1/2 lb pumpkin, peeled and cubed

3 tablespoons tomato paste

Salt, to taste

5 cups water or chicken or vegetable stock

Whipped yoghurt to garnish

Cilantro, minced to garnish

Roasted pumpkin seeds (see note below for seasoning instructions)

Make the Berbere spice powder by individually roasting each of the whole ingredients until lightly browned and aromatic. Cool and grind to a fine powder in a spice mill or coffee grinder. Mix the rest of the ingredients and store in an airtight container. It will last for quite some time.

Excellent ready-made versions are available in India (at Doyen Foods) and the US (at Brundo Spice Company); frankly, it is just so much cheaper to buy the ready mix.

To make the soup, heat the oil in a large pot big enough for all the ingredients and sauté the onions until lightly golden, about 3-4 minutes. Add the ginger and cook for an additional minute until the ginger is aromatic and no longer smells raw. Add the Berbere spice powder and give a quick stir. Add the pumpkins, tomato paste, and salt and sauté for 3-4 minutes until the pumpkins are coated with the spices.

Add the water/stock and bring to a boil. Simmer for 30 minutes. The pumpkins should be very soft, and you should be able to mush them easily with a fork or spatula. For a smooth soup, purée the soup with a hand blender till smooth. For a chunkier soup with a bit more texture, take out 1 ladle of the pumpkin pieces and purée the soup. Add the pumpkin pieces back to the soup. I personally prefer a smooth soup, but you are welcome to enjoy it as you want.

Taste the soup for salt and spices. Adjust for salt and seasoning. If you want the soup spicer, add some more Berbere spice powder, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, and simmer for an additional 10 minutes to incorporate the flavours.

Serve hot, garnished with a tablespoon of yoghurt, minced cilantro and toasted pumpkin seeds.

Note: I occasionally also toss 1/4 cup pumpkin seeds in 1 teaspoon olive oil, add 1/2 teaspoon Berbere spice mix, and toss to coat evenly. Use to top the soup.