Chickmangaluru bitter gourd curry (Hagalkal yangai)

I love bittergourd and all bitter foods. It is in my genetic makeup. Here is a basic genetics lesson on the science of bitterness.

Humans have 23 pairs of chromosomes. Each chromosome is made up of a double helix of DNA (Deoxyribonucleic Acid). These long DNA molecules have strings of information called genes that, in turn, code for proteins. The proteins are the functional molecules in the body.

For bitter taste, the specific proteins involved are called TAS2R proteins, as there are at least 30 variants of this gene family. Everyone gets two copies of the gene, one from the mother and one from the father.

In the image below, the TAS2R gene is represented by the letter “T”. “T” denotes the dominant variant, which is the functional form of the gene, meaning the person can taste bitterness. The “t” is a changed (mutation) version of the gene, recessive, and the person cannot taste bitterness. In the image below, the father has a “TT” genotype and is a “supertaster”. The mother has “tt”, which means she cannot taste bitterness at all. The child inherits “Tt” and hence can taste bitterness, but less than the supertaster father. And the mother has “tt”, which means she cannot taste bitterness at all.

To make things more complex, as I mentioned, there are at least 30 variants of the TAS2R gene, so the combination of supertasters down to no taste is immense and along a spectrum. Finally, the TAS2R gene family is only one of the genes involved in taste; there are numerous others. Both the genetics and biochemistry of taste and the wide spectrum of bitter taste are complex. Please note that this is a very short introduction to the genetics and biochemistry of the complex science of taste.

Source: https://learn.genetics.utah.edu/

The rationale for this long introduction is that supertasters will not like bitter gourds or other bitter flavours. In contrast, those with a combination of milder genetic traits will tolerate or even love bitter gourds and other bitter foods. Incidentally, these genetics also play a role in people’s love for Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower, and other vegetables in that family.

So let’s get to this recipe, it is a complex dish with a splash of flavours from a region in Karnataka called Chickmangaluru. It is a coffee-growing region in the lush Western Ghats, with abundant monsoon rainfall. The cuisine focuses on fresh produce, local souring agents, and lots of chillies.

This dish highlights the region's style. The bittergourds are tender, and the curry is thin, typical in hot climates, with lots of spice, a bold tanginess that is balanced by sweetness from the jaggery. It is a wonderful side dish, full of bright flavour.

Flirting with Flavour is the first book by Anu Shankar, whose heritage of home-cooked food highlights her culture. She has produced this book as an ode to her grandmother’s recipes, “a timeless celebration of heritage and love served at the table”. It covers the cuisines of ultra-local regions, including Chickmangaluru, Hubli, and Punganur, a region whose culinary heritage has not been well documented. This is a lovely cookbook on flavour, local customs, and the region, a must-have for collectors.

Ingredients:

6 baby bittergourds

For the dry spice powder:

1/2 cup desiccated coconut

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1 tablespoon split, husked black gram (urad dal)

1/2 teaspoon poppy seeds

For the temper:

3 tablespoons oil

1/4 teaspoon mustard seeds

10-12 curry leaves

1 onion, finely diced

3-4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon sambhar powder

For the curry:

1 cup water

Salt, to taste

1-2 tablespoons jaggery or brown sugar

1-2 tablespoons tamarind extract

Method:

Start by making the dry spice powder:

Dry roast each ingredient separately until aromatic and toasted. Cool completely and grind to a smooth powder in a coffee mill or spice grinder. Set aside.

Remove the stems from the bittergourds. Slit them in half longitudinally, and remove the inner pith and seeds. I use a spoon to scrape them out. This is not a necessary step, but it makes for a cleaner curry. Cut into half moons, about 1/4-inch in width. Set aside. Some chefs suggest rubbing the bitter gourds with salt and turmeric, letting them sit for 30 minutes, then rinsing them to reduce bitterness. But I usually do not bother with this step.

Progress to the temper. Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a deep pot, then add the mustard seeds. They will pop in 10 seconds. Add the curry leaves, onion and garlic and sautee until the onions are a light golden colour. Add the sambhar powder and toss briefly.

Add the bitter gourd pieces and sauté for 3-4 minutes. Add the water and salt, and simmer over low heat for 10-12 minutes, until the bitter gourds are almost cooked.

Add the dry spice powder, jaggery, and tamarind, and simmer for 5-7 more minutes. The bitter gourds should be cooked through and tender. The curry should be bold and spicy, with good sweetness and sourness, all three in balance.

Serve hot with rice or dosas.