Beef and lemongrass wrapped in betel leaf (Bò Lá Lốt)

In India, we know of the Paan leaf, Betel leaf, Piper betle, a chew that is beloved by the nation. It is used as a wrap with calcium hydroxide, catechu (which gives the red colour), and araca nut seed, and often with rose jam (gulkand) for a sweet version. There are more varieties, some with tobacco, and various other spices and herbs. These are always chewed raw, and the taste of the beetle leaf is pungent.

And then I discovered, with Naomi at her home, Miang kham, the Laotian version of a lovely salad made with the local Betel leaf. In Vietnam, they have Lá lôt, wild betel or Lolot, which belongs to the Piper sarmentosum family. It is a thinner, more flexible leaf, and milder in flavour.

This leaf is prized in Vietnamese cuisine because, when roasted, its flavour transforms from bitter to smoky and incense-like. This is the magic that makes this leaf beloved across the nation.

I have been wanting to make this dish for a while now, but I hesitated because the right leaf isn't readily available. But I finally gave up and used the Indian paan leaf. I was curious how the flavour profile would change.

The dish turned out wonderfully; the paan leaf did have a stronger aftertaste, but it is a taste that the Indian palate is accustomed to, so the small parcels were enjoyed on the table. The novelty of eating a cooked paan leaf also sparked curiosity, which in turn led folks to try the dish.

The lemongrass and tender beef came together well. The lemongrass is dominant, and the other spices complement the dish. The noodles were perfect to enjoy with the small packets, the Nuoc mam cham adding a wonderful acidity and "umami" from the fish sauce. We loved this dish as an appetiser; it was the perfect small bite.

Vietnamese cuisine is a culinary tome that starts in the north and travels south. It stops at marketplaces and homes of families and chefs, documenting the flavours of a nation's exquisite recipes. The recipes are authentic and delicious; each is annotated with a story about its origins. Luke Nguyen is an author, chef, restaurateur and TV host. He is responsible for popularising Vietnamese food across Australia and the world, taking the ingredients and flavours to his audience. This is a lovely book that should belong in every chef's kitchen for its recipes and flavours of a nation.

For more recipes from this book, click here.

Ingredients:

For the Nuoc mam cham:

2 tbs caster sugar

1/2 cup (125ml) hot water

1/4 cup (60ml) fish sauce

1/4 cup (60ml) white vinegar

2 tbs lime juice

1 long red chilli, seeds removed, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

For the Beef marinade:

1/2 lb beef mince

2-inch lemongrass stalks, white part only, finely chopped

4 long green shallots, white part only, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

2 tsp white pepper

20 large betel leaves, or 40 small (see note)

100g dried rice vermicelli noodles, soaked according to packet instructions

Fried shallots, to serve

Crushed roasted peanuts, to serve

Thinly sliced long red chillies, to serve

Method:

To make the nouc mam cham:

Heat the water with the sugar briefly, until the sugar melts. No need to boil the water. Allow to cool completely. Add the remaining ingredients and mix well. Allow to marinate for at least 2 hours.

To marinate the beef:

Mix the ingredients well; I use my hands. Allow to marinate at room temperature for at least one hour for the beef to pick up the flavours.

To assemble the betel leaves:

Snip the tough stems off the betel leaves. Place a betel leaf, smooth side down, on a flat surface. Add a teaspoon of the beef mix to the middle of the leaf. Fold the base up, then the two sides in, and then roll to the top. It is a delicate process, but you need to make tight packages. I needed to use a toothpick to hold the package together. The packets can be made and stored in the fridge until needed.

Vermicelli noodles:

Cook the noodles according to the package instructions until tender, usually by soaking them in hot water for 15-30 minutes. Drain and set aside in a colander to dry out

To cook:

Preheat the oven to 375°F with the rack in the centre.

Layer the leaves onto a lined baking sheet and cook for 6 minutes, flip and cook for an additional 3 minutes. Alternatively, you can cook the packages on a hot griddle or hotplate.

Add the cooked noodles to a plate. Drizzle liberally with the marinade, keeping some for later. Place the cooked betel leaves on top and drizzle with more marinade. Serve immediately, with the marinade on the side for those who would like some more.