In India, we know of the Paan leaf, Betel leaf, Piper betle , a chew that is beloved by the nation. It is used as a wrap with calcium hydroxide, catechu (which gives the red colour), and araca nut seed, and often with rose jam (gulkand) for a sweet version. There are more varieties, some with tobacco, and various other spices and herbs. These are always chewed raw, and the taste of the beetle leaf is pungent. And then I discovered, with Naomi at her home, Miang kham, the Laot

I love the technique of friccasse, a slow braise of meat. It is generally referred to as the "white braise" because of the dish's light colour. The term is derived from the French "frire," meaning "to fry," and "casser," meaning "to break into pieces." The technique involves lightly frying the meat, usually chicken, veal, or rabbit, to seal in the juices, then braising it in a liquid, usually white wine or stock. The sauce is thickened with egg yolks or cream, depending on th

This is a simple but elegant dessert; most importantly, it uses very little sugar. Apples are a favourite in the French culinary world, and this is a lovely dish thatexpresses the beauty of the fruit. The apples are soft, but the texture is highlighted by the nuts' bite in the stuffing. The addition of cinnamon, so traditional, makes this dish familiar and soulful. It is very low in sugar, with sweetness coming from the natural sugars in the apples and the apple juice that tu