

Zafar's recipes

Assamese tomato tenga
Tomato tenga is a standard dish on my Sister-in-Law, Sameena's, table. It is made often, and I always look forward to it. I tuck it into white rice and enjoy just this combination. Tenga, meaning "sour", belongs to a class of sour curries made with vegetables such as elephant apple, limes, or mangosteen. However, tomatoes are the most common variety seen. This is a simple curry, not too many spices, and the simplicity of the flavour is what makes it delicious. The potato serves to thicken...
Sri Lankan Pumpkin curry with blackened coconut (Wattakka kalu pol maluwa)
Our first day in Sri Lanka was the Katina Poojava, also known as Katina Pinkama, one of the most important Buddhist festivals. The entire community participates, organising, cooking dishes and preparing for this event. Our host, Yasassri, was contributing by making a few dishes. Together we cooked three dishes, see recipes below: Boiled manioc with grated coconut (Kaha manioc) Pumpkin curry with blackened coconut (Wattakka kalu pol maluwa) Pennywort sambols (Gotukola sambol) Sour preserved...
Sri Lankan pennywort sambol (Gotukola sambol)
If there is a sambol quintessential to the Sri Lankan table, it is gotukola sambol. It is recognised by the fresh green colour and the light aromatic aroma. I had not had gorukala, or pennywort, before this trip; I had seen recipes with it and so was curious. Early in the trip, I had a chance not just to taste this dish, but also to make it. We had gone to a home to prepare dishes for the Katina poojava ceremony, the most important of Buddhist ceremonies. We were invited to participate in the...
Sri Lankan blackened chicken curry (Kalu kukul mas curry)
We made this curry in Sri Lanka with Chef Peper Kuruvita during one of his many cooking demonstrations. I fell in love with this curry; it is unique. Kalu kukul mas curry literally translates to "blackened chicken", and is a classic village-style dish in Sri Lanka. It is most popular around Galle and the southern Western region of the island, where spices grow abundantly. As history tells us, this is an ancient curry, pre-dating Colonialism and dating back to Buddhist times. The technique is...
Nuwara Eliya mutton curry
Sometimes, a curry is a story, a piece of history, and so much more than a beautiful dish. To appreciate this curry, we need to understand Nuwara Eliya. Nuwara Eliya is about 1500 meters above sea level, and on the slopes of the mountains. It is cool, it has a thick forest densely populated by elephants, and it is beautiful. It was part of the Kandian Kingdom and was later discovered by the English, who turned it into a hill station retreat for the elite. In the 1850s, it was a thriving small...
Wagyu with garlic, kasuri methi tomatoes, and pickled pumpkin
My last day in Tokyo was a lovely afternoon with the Kikkoman team, where we all took turns cooking a dish or two and chatting about the trip, forming new friendships. It was an afternoon of camaraderie, laughter and great food. We had spent the morning at the market, buying ingredients, more on a whim than with a plan. I had also brought a few ingredients down from India, knowing this afternoon was on the agenda. Here is a simple dish that brings together the flavours of Japan and India on a...
Assamese potato mash (Alu pitika)
I was having a meal at my sister-in-law's house a while ago, and she had served this dish. I, too, took a bite and knew immediately that I wanted to learn this recipe. Little did I realizehow simple this recipe is. Potatoes are the backbone of the Indian kitchen, and the variety of dishes made with them across every region is absolutely amazing. Here is a very simple dish that captures the essence of Assamese cuisine. Bhartha is a dish from North India made with mashed vegetables, most...
Bihari mutton curry (Champaran mutton)
The cuisine of Bihar is as yet unknown to me. I keep hearing about it from friends, and I am anxious to eat and learn about these dishes. This is a classic dish I've heard rave reviews about, so I began seeking out a recipe for it. Bihari mutton curry is also called Champaran curry or Ahuna mutton. It hails from Motihari, Champaran district. The dish highlights village-style cooking, traditionally made in earthen pots called "ahuna," which gives it its alternative name. The meat was...
Angolan flame-grilled chicken wings
In July of this year, I took a trip to Angola, one of the least touristy destinations in the world. This was a superb cultural and culinary trip organised by Roads & Kingdoms , and hosted by the fabulous food writer, historian, and cultural guru who was our guide for the week. On my first night, we went out to a local restaurant, Churrascaria Nandinhos, renowned for its BBQ'ed chicken. I have lived in the US, and BBQ'ed chicken in the Virginia belt was what I considered the best. Of...




















