Persian celery stew with chicken (Khoresh Karafs)

Persian culture offers many stews, of which we are familiar with only a handful. Stews are tremendously important in Persian culture; they bring out the skills of the home chef to provide a nutritious and delicious meal to sustain the family. Most of old Persia is a very harsh, rocky, mountainous, and arid land, and the extreme climate makes it hard to grow vegetables. Those grown were cherished, and cooking techniques, including stews and soups, were developed to maximize their nutritional value.

In addition, Persia was at the crossroads of ancient trade routes, with travellers passing through this region bringing a myriad of spices, cooking techniques, and herbs. This resulted in wonderful and elaborate dishes, culminating in delicate and delicious stews. Most Persian stews contain meat, lentils, vegetables, spices, and lots of herbs. The characteristic use of lots of herbs by the bunch makes cooking a stew a delicate art form that maintains the subtle flavours and textures in the dish. A chef's ability to make the perfect soup/stew is judged on this ability, so much so that the Persian word for chef is derived from the word for soup, "Aush.”

This stew is one of the more popular and classic stews of Persia. The combination of chicken, celery, and herbs comes together beautifully in a well-balanced flavour profile. The technique involves first enhancing the flavour of the celery by pan sauteeing it with herbs and then slowly braising the chicken with the celery and spices in a herby mix. The resulting stew is nutritious and delicious. This stew does not add lentils to the recipe. I find that the omission of lentils allows the celery and herbs to shine.

This is a beautiful book packed with most of the well-known Persian recipes. The instructions are simple, and you are guaranteed to fall in love with the tahdig once you master this art. I recommend this book to anyone looking for a great starter on Persian cuisine. For more recipes from this cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 medium yellow onion, diced 2 skinless, boneless, preferably organic chicken breasts cut into 1″ stewing cubes Salt to taste Pepper to taste 1 teaspoon turmeric powder 1 head celery, sliced in 1/2″-1″ slices green celery tops (leaves) chopped (if using) 1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped 3 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped, plus 1 teaspoon dried mint Juice of 2 lemons or limes, more according to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground saffron dissolved in 5 tablespoons hot (not boiling) water

2-3 cups water, as needed

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion, sprinkle with a bit of salt, and saute until translucent, for about 6-8 minutes.

Add chicken. Give it a quick stir, and add 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and turmeric. Stir and saute for 5 minutes. Cover and turn down the heat to low. Simmer for 15 minutes until the chicken releases some of its juices.

In the meantime, heat the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add celery and celery tops (if using). Add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Saute the celery for 10 minutes until softened but not cooked through, stirring occasionally so the celery doesn’t stick.

Add parsley and fresh mint. Stir constantly and saute with celery for about 3 minutes. Turn down the heat if needed. Mint can burn very quickly, so keep an eye and a nose on it. If using dried mint, rub the mint between your palms to release fragrance and flavour and add it to the celery only at the last minute. Give a quick stir and turn the heat off.

Transfer the celery, parsley, and mint mixture to the chicken. Add lemon juice, saffron water, 1 cup water, and one teaspoon salt. Stir everything to combine. Bring to a gentle simmer. Partially cover and simmer over low heat for at least 45 minutes. You want the celery to be cooked and tender but NOT mushy. It should hold its shape. Add more water as necessary. Taste. Adjust for more fresh lemon or lime juice, mint, salt or other herbs as desired.

Serve hot, sprinkled with a touch of minced mint and parsley, with a bread of your choice.