Hyderabadi apricot pudding (Khubani ka meetha)

The history of apricots is ancient. The fruit was thought to have originated in China in 2000 BC, and the Roman emperor Julius Caesar loved them. The fruit was brought to him, dried via the Silk Route, and it established itself along the way in various regions, including the slopes of the lower Himalayas in Northern India. When the Uzbek king Babur invaded India, he was very pleasantly surprised to discover the fruit was already established in India, so he could enjoy them. 

I had the pleasure of gorging on fresh fruit in Manali a few years ago. The Indian fruit is smaller, very sweet and has an intense flavour; it is quite different from the Turkish bright yellow apricots. These little beauties are abundant and sold along the roadsides and in small grocery stores around every corner. The region is also essential in drying this fruit for use in Indian cuisine, including this dessert. 

This recipe is a family recipe, it was taught to me by my mother, who in turn learned it from the kitchens on my paternal Hyderabadi side. This is an iconic dessert in Hyderabad, a city known for its food, biryanis, dum cooking and unique desserts. 

Commercial Khubani ka meetha is usually a disaster. The kitchens add fillers, thickeners, and colouring agents, and it is usually loaded with tonnes of sugar, making it sickeningly sweet. 

Here is a simple recipe, with three ingredients, but cooked to perfection and so delicate. The magic happens as the apricots slowly cook and light caramelise over time. I also reduced the sugar dramatically, even less than what my mother usually uses. I wanted to highlight the fruit's flavour without drowning it out. Finally, I roasted and added the apricot nuts. It is a massive pain to remove these small apricot almonds; see the tricks in the recipe rather than using slivered almonds, which are usually substituted. Also, the stewed apricots are gently mashed with an egg beater rather than an electric blender; they should be slightly mashed, leaving plenty of texture. 

The dessert is delicate, the tart sweetness of the fruit shines with a touch of sugar, and a drizzle of cream adds a lovely texture. This dessert is perfect for those hot months; it refreshes the palate and soul and is lighter than the heavier Hyderabadi desserts. 

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Ingredients:

3/4 lb dried Indian apricots

1/2-3/4 cup sugar

Fresh cream, to garnish

8 cups of water

Soak the dried apricots in the water overnight.

Next morning, remove the pits by gently squeezing each apricot; retain the pits and put the apricot flesh back into the soaking liquid. 

Add the sugar, starting with 1/2 cup, to the apricots and water and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for 45-55 minutes, until the apricots are very mushy and the liquid has reduced to a lovely syrupy texture. 

While the apricots are simmering, pit the nuts, trying to keep them whole. To do this, layer 10 or so nuts between two sheets of pa[er towels and lightly pound them with a pestle to crack them open. Collect the nuts and set them aside. You can also gently roast them in a dry frying pan for 2-3 minutes, until aromatic and toasted. 

When the apricots are cooked, taste the mix for sugar; the sweetness should be light, highlighting the apricots' flavour rather than drowning it out. 

Beat the apricot mixture with a hand- or electric egg beater on low speed until slightly mushy. You are looking for a light mash, with about half the apricots still in large chunks for texture. 

Serve at room temperature or chilled with a drizzle of cream and a sprinkling of the apricot nuts.